Hi Sarah -
WELCOME BACK STRANGER!
Have not been to GP in about 4 years. Was very quiet - most touristas never ventured off the path to get there, unless they were interested in the manantee project. My guess is it's still the same way. Without a critical mass of infrastructure, most gringos will not headed that way. I loved the time I spent there, though. Wonderful cultural experience. Even with all the bad PR of late, I would not hesitiate to go back again and spend some low-key, enlightening, get-to-know-your-fellow man/woman/child time!
(Yes, you have the standard living conditions figured out)
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But then what do I know, I am but a mere caveman