It’s Monday, and I’m up before dawn again. Flip on coffee. I think you got my routine down by now, but this time Bruce comes out for sunrise with me. again, we see the stingray.

http://www.pbase.com/sweetjane/image/103258653

Leo is up when we get back, and I poke ole pokey (steve). Off in search of groceries yet again. It is reallllly hot this week, so it’s good for us to try to get out early. We headed north for fruit & the bakery. A woman by the ‘Jesus Markets’, as Leo put it, was bbq-ing chicken, and it just smelled too good to drive past. Sounded like a great lunch to us, so we got 3 portions (with fixin’s, as always) for later.

http://www.pbase.com/sweetjane/image/103225101

We drove them back down the beach way again, up near Caye Casa. We love that stretch of ‘road’. It is so pretty and quiet…more like it must have been all over once. We take the boys to meet our friends, Daniel & Elodia Nunez, of Tanisha Tours. We met them several trips ago, attempting (but not actually getting) to get to Lamanai. But that’s another story.

Not wanting to smoke in their office, we just park out front till we finish. Daniel comes out of the house and looks up. A wide grin breaks out on his face; he waves. “Hey, you are back!” and calls for his wife. Son Josh comes out, then Elodia, already smiling. Hugs all around. I love that.

We chat about kids and life and things. Daniel, knowing about our plight of not yet managing to get to Lamanai (our 6th mayan site to see), mentions that he has a group going the next day – asks us to come too. We hem and haw over the cost, but realize we may not get to do this trip with the boys AND Daniel again (I would only do Lamanai with Daniel, IMO). So we throw all common sense out the window, and told them we’ll be on our dock tomorrow at 7.

http://www.pbase.com/sweetjane/image/89091857 (from last year)

Elodia calls for her little girl, Genesis, to come visit with us. She’s playing with her cousin next door, but they come. She is the cutest and most precocious thing ever. We ask her about her big vacation to Playa and about school, and tickle her. Bruce knows we will never get out of there without taking her for a spin on the cart, so he offers the girls up front with him. They make the same circle as always, and the girls, satisfied, giggle their way off the cart. It is very hot by now, so after more hugs, we’re back on the road.

we eat two kinds of ham & cheese buns, toasted cinnamon bread with pineapple jam, and fruit. it is gooood, and surprisingly filling. we digest, relax for a few, then suit up, cuz we'er going to snorkle under Ramon's dock next!

All that, and it isn’t even noon yet.

We walked over to Ramon’s, hoping to see that stingray. Since I’m too big a ninny to jump off, we went down the ladder at the dive shop and swam to the end of the dock.

As we swam out, the boys swam in and out of the pylons. We saw a bunch of blue tangs and sergeant majors. Pretty cool. Then we got closer to the end of the dock. They put a bunch of logs and stuff under to act like an artificial reef, and the fish came. There were WAY more fish there than I thought there would be! And a fairly good variety. Gars, butterflies, puffers. It was funny to hear us all talking through our snorkels, saying “hey boys!” or “hey, look over here!”, “here, here!! BRUCE!! Look!” We were really having fun.

Then Leo said, “Jane! Jane! I saw an eel!” I’m thinking, that’s nice, he saw a little eel. And then I saw it.

“OMG!!!!” the biggest green moray I ever saw swam out of one grouping of debris the other, and I saw him end to end, snout to tail tip. Not five feet away from me. “BRUCE! DID YOU SEE IT?” not at first, so we swam some more until we all had seen it. Wow. That was the highpoint of that snorkel. Getting tired, the boys were ready to head back. We were just about back at the ladder when Leo looked up and asked what the fish below him was. We all came to look at it. I had never seen a fish like it before. It was prehistoric looking. Mottled dark brown, like a rock, with a head like a ray, but a tail like a shark. Bruce went down to take a closer look, and it swam away, in a shark-like fashion. Interesting.

We walked back to the Palms, and showered off by the pool. Steve suggested a swim, so we did. It felt very nice. The pool there is part in the sun and part in the shade, so we all just floated round and round, chattering happily about the trip so far, and all the cool things we’d already seen.

Then, NAPTIME!

I slept like I was in a coma. I think we all did. I looked at the clock, and told hunny we had to get up. We washed up, and the phone rang. “There’s a Chris here to see you”. Excellent! Send them up!

Big hugs and so great to see you agains!! It was our friends, Chris, Sari & Pooh Bear. They work managing La Perla del Caribe. If you haven’t seen this place, check out their website. Gorgeous homes, gorgeous pool, gorgeous beach. You may have seen it on House Hunters International.

We get Sari & pooh cold water, and belikins for the guys, and go out to the rear “adult porch” that overlooks the pool (yes, the room had two balconies!) and all talk at once. And talk and talk and talk.

http://www.pbase.com/sweetjane/image/103225235

We join the boys, who had spent time with Chris in Cayo last year, and they catch up. Steve coos Pooh Bear. They gratefully ogle the goodies we brought them. We make loose plans to see them up at the resort, and say goodnight. We still have dinner plans tonight with Capt. Jeff!

Capt. Jeff and I had tried to meet last trip too, but hadn’t (another pattern!). Finally, we met Cappy and his friend Steve at Elvi’s. Again, lots of talking! Jeff is full of stories. Coconet/Pelican Steve was pretty funny, and amused me and the kids. We all had lobster. The lobster was just ok, but the company was nice. We talked and talked some more, but we were tired, and had to get up early for Lamani in the morning (bet you forgot, didn’t ya?). We rubbed our stuffed bellies, said our goodbyes, and carted off.

Jane...is this your prehistoric fish?

http://ambergriscaye.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/262918/Who_is_this_guy.html#Post262918

Great trip report, fun to read.

nope. we had asked Chris if he had any idea what it was, but he didn't. glad you were paying attention, but you are getting ahead of the story.

just stay tuned. more still to come.

(if you've been following along, i added some pics to the previous posts above. thx.)

Tuesday, and I go out for my pre-dawn jaunt solo. Just as well, as the sunrise was a bit obscured by clouds this morning. It is still beautiful, and I watch.

http://www.pbase.com/sweetjane/image/103225238

I stroll leisurely down the dock, and feel a drop; then another. I walk a bit faster…then faster… then RUN. I got sopping wet just going from Ramon’s to my condo next door. Then as quickly as the rain came; it stopped. I mused to myself that it’d be funny if the trip got postponed for a third time

Everyone was up and getting ready. It was a lotion-and-bug-spray day. For those unfamiliar, the Lamanai trip is a whole day event from the island into the mainland jungle, involving two boats and a bus to get there and back. Much farther than altun ha. We tossed our backpacks together, slugged down the last of the coffee, and were on the dock at 6:55 AM, ready for adventure.

Daniel and Josh pulled up to the dock right on time, smiles in place. “Are you guys ready?” teases Josh, but we are. He does not know that we are Amateur Mayan Ruin Tacklers Extraordinaire…the Intrepid Wests! LOL (if you know me, you know I am the least intrepid person on earth). This is the third Mayan site for the boys and the sixth for Bruce and me, and we are as charged up as we get before 8 AM.

We pull up at Sunbreeze to pick up the party of 16 grad students that comprised the rest of the group. No one was on the dock. They were not ready…not even close. And they acted like they didn’t care. Still not ready, we hop off for a smoke. Still not ready. They took at least 20 minutes to trickle by 2’s onto the boat, all bearing styrofoam containers of breakfast and coffee cups, complaining about partying too much last night. Daniel was not pleased. He mumbled to us about how Styrofoam affect the environment, and how we needed to be on time to get our connections. It seemed like an hour until they were finally all seated. Daniel reminded them he brought homemade banana bread & fresh squeezed juice so they had not needed to bring food, and by doing that, we are now quite behind schedule. He was very polite, but we knew he was really annoyed. He asked them all to please not let the containers blow off the boat, and when they are done please pass them back for proper disposal.

Daniel officially welcomes them and introduces us to them as ‘our visiting friends’ (smile), gives a little talk, and we’re off. Then the rain starts. We pass around ponchos and get pelted for a few minutes till it stops. The sun breaks out and I look around. Sure enough, a moment later I see the rainbow.

http://www.pbase.com/sweetjane/image/103277046

I point it out to everyone, and the whole boat relaxes. Now we’re ready!

Daniel is one with his boat, and it is pleasure to watch him maneuver it. This is clearly a man who enjoys what he does. We fly past islets to the river’s mouth and through the mangroves.

http://www.pbase.com/sweetjane/image/103277054

He points out interesting plants and birds, and stops on a dime to show us a crocodile. We even “see” a group (herd?) of manatees! ok, we couldn't actually see them, but we saw their movement, bubbles, and 2 snouts. They were only yards away from us, but the water of the river is very dark with black mangrove.

http://www.pbase.com/sweetjane/image/103225105

Then Daniel shifts gears, and we rocket forward. Josh had been messing around, dad knew it. Josh looses his footing, then steadying himself, yells "Hey!". His dad looks at him and cracks up, then we all do. Daniel steers like a racecar driver thru the channel at top speed, wake streaming behind us. Steve dubs him “The Ricky Bobby of San Pedro.”

http://www.pbase.com/sweetjane/image/103276401

I was amused watching half the grads sleep on a speeding boat. Ah, to be young. We land at Bomba. A quick smoke, and we load onto the bus. We sit in the back (don’t all the cool kids?) with Daniel & Josh, which gives us all a chance to talk. Leo and Josh talk a bit about the differences of growing up where they do. They each have some misconceptions about the other, so it was a pretty interesting conversation. Trees and farms roll past out the open bus windows. The hot breeze felt great. We get to the next landing (quick smoke) and they had put out some watermelon for us before loading into the next boat. Before we know it, we can see the top of the temple thru the trees. We’re here.

We walk up the path to the picnic tables. Right away, Daniel says he sees spider monkeys, and takes off calling “come on!” We boogie further up the path and see the treetops swaying with motion. We chase the motion until we finally see them. I’d only ever seen a spider monkey once – at banana bank ranch in 1993, and it was on a collar & leash – so this was exciting for me. Daniel said they don’t see them very often and it was a treat. Cool. Almost immediately after, we hear howlers and go looking for them too. Much easier to see, but exhilarating just the same, as our boys had never seen howlers, and Bruce and I were hoping to see them again. We watch several climb around, even a cute baby.

But we were supposed to be eating lunch, so we return to the tables, where Josh & the ranger guy were setting up buffet style. Homemade stew chicken, rice n beans, tortillas chips, sweet plantins, and slaw. I have to say: IT WAS THE BEST STEW CHICKEN N FIXINS EVER!! Really good!! We inhaled the food, eating every last drop. My thin-as-a-rail-eats-nothing-but crap son even asked Josh if he could have seconds!!

I wander over to a bird of paradise flower to try out my macro camera setting. Daniel comes up quietly behind me and says “Don’t take that picture. There is a viper that feeds on hummingbirds. They hide in the brush below the flower waiting for a bird, then strike.” I say ok, and slowly back away from the flower.

We do the ruin thing. It is really hot, yet really cool. We see more howlers. Lamanai has several structures unearthed. Stellae, glyphs and carvings. We were running out of water, I was really hot by the time we got to the climbing temple. It was very tall and steep. Now, I’m no ruin wimp - I’ve climbed 4 temples before - but for the first time ever, I deemed I was way too hot to do it this time. Bruce & Leo went up, Steve and I stayed behind. Afterward, Bruce secretly told me it really was way too hot, and he thought I did the right thing by not going up. Of course Josh, very entertaining at 16, said “hey, watch this!” and ran barefoot all the way down the temple as fast as he could, which was pretty damn fast. A testosterone charged grad student had to match him, and he did the same thing, but in FLIP-FLOPS! We all cheered and gave them a round of applause.

http://www.pbase.com/sweetjane/image/103225103

Everybody seemed to have a good time. Vine climbing followed, Tarzan-style. At the last temple, there was a wide grassy field (like a football field), and they broke out in an impromptu Frisbee toss. At times like that, I kind of miss my 20’s.

It was time to head back to the boat. Everyone was tired and chatty, as they passed the rum punches around. Back to the bus. Daniel pointed out to me that another well-known tour group that had lunched with us at the same time, had shown up after we did, had left the site long before we did. Yes, I noted that our tour was almost an hour longer. Interesting to know.

oh! since Daniel is a wildlife expert, i asked him about that odd fish we saw. he thought for a moment, and told us it was and electric ray, and said it packs a wallop. (he was right):

http://www.dkimages.com/discover/previews/872/55003605.JPG

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_ray

We hauled up to the room, exhausted. Showers all around. I get a text from Tacogirl saying she is at Pedro’s with Wade and Dutch, but all I can think about is food and bed. I thanked her and said to say hi, ate, and went to bed.

Can I keep saying ‘another great day!’?

ok, finally - PICTURE TIME!

please do me my weird courtesy of running the slide show (top right). thanks.

http://www.pbase.com/sweetjane/ambergris_with_boys_aug_08


still more report to come.

Great Pics Jane!

Nice!

More, more, more - please - just cannot wait to be there - 22 sleeps