us too, ren - we stayed just north of the cut in aug and nov, and never once saw papi's open!
if you drive a mile north of where you are staying, beach n kitchen makes good breakfast, and now i hear dinner too. waruguma 2 is just south of the bridge on the right - look for the green/blue stall with a bbq out front and handwritten signs. great food (huge lobster burritos, peppery ceviche) for taking back to the condo.
if you go to sunset grill on lagoon side for lunch, they feed the baby tarpon for you. (ask to see the "belizean pirhana") teens would think it's pretty cool.
they make gooood conch fritters.
i'll leave snorkel info to those who know better. hey, didn't seashell say they took the stairs off the dock at ramon's??