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Posted By: Ms. Coconuts Rainbow Out My Window (Day Six) - 12/08/02 10:02 PM
It was 5:30am when I sleepily stumbled to the end of the pier. (Once again Ambergris Divers didn't have eight divers to go to the Blue Hole so they put me on the Amigos Del Mar boat. At least I tried to get on a smaller boat. I usually get very grumpy on a large dive boat, but ADM divided the divers into two groups and did an excellent job getting us quickly in the water. The DMs, Alex and Philipe did a fantastic job.) As I waited on the pier, the world slowly grew light, but the sunrise was blocked by puffy pink clouds.
The ride out to the Great Blue Hole was a heap fun. The waves were the most enormous waves I had ever seen! The boat bounced up and down until I felt sure it would crack in two. Whenever the boat crashed down into the sea, a fine mist of water splashed into the air over the stern. At the same time, the early morning sun shone through the water droplets creating a perfect little rainbow. All the way to the Great Blue Hole, this tiny rainbow followed the ship. While I watched the rainbow disappear and reappear, I understood that this is truly a magical place.
Before I knew it we were at the Great Blue Hole. I didn't believe it at first because there was ocean all around. One or two rocks jutted out of the sea, but certainly not a surrounding circular wall like you see in the pictures. But when I looked down and saw the deep dark blue of the water, I knew we weren't in the shallows of a coral reef.

The Great Blue Hole 27 minutes, 153 feet

We descended over a shallow sandy bottom, but the massive drop off loomed so large, that the long barracuda, scant corals and other fishes seemed like a child's dream. It was the abrupt drop off into the cold dark waters that dominated the scene. I was scared.
Of course I didn't have a dive buddy, so I stuck close to Alex, the dive master, as we descended along a lifeless dark wall. It was a somber journey down. But a quick journey that past in a blurry haze. At 132 feet the wall curved inward and a monstrous stalactite hung from the ceiling. The stalactites were much larger than I had ever imagined. They were so big that they reminded me of those sculptures found on Easter Island.
As I swam in, out and around the colossal stalactites, I realized this was the most beautiful, wonderful, and inspiring thing I had ever done. The stalactites started swaying in the currents and the fuzzy plantlike growth that covered them started growing at an amazingly fast rate. Immediately, Alex was right next to me asking if I was OK, but it took a moment for me to process the question. I looked at my SPG, plenty of air. Then I looked at my depth and we began to ascend.
There must have been some sort of Caribbean reef shark convention going on because there were reef sharks everywhere! On the edge of murk and visibility, a pair of reef sharks lurked. Visible one second, gone the next. When I looked up, three sharks swaggered in the sunbeams far, so far away, until with lightening speed, they zoomed out of sight. Below me, I glimpsed a shark's fin vanishing into the darkness.
The safety stop was another extraordinary experience. I was hovering off to the side of the group trying somehow to absorb what had just happened. A slow breath and I rose to around fifteen feet; exhale and I sank down a few feet. It just didn't seem real. Another breath. Suddenly, the guys on the boat began to thrown in dead fish heads and other yucky fish parts and the reef sharks swarmed all around me. If I had been so inclined, which I wasn't, I could have reached out and touched one. Once again, Alex came over and saved me. He took me back to hang on to the anchor line with the rest of the group.

Half Moon Wall 46 minutes, 67 feet

There were several very long tarpon swimming among the canyons. Unfortunately, I couldn't enjoy them because my mask kept fogging up! I let a little water seep in to clear away the fog. By the time I blew the water out of my mask, it would fog up again! At one point, I completely flooded the mask. My eyes were burning. I had inhaled water through my nose and I still had a foggy mask. I finally just left a small amount of water in the mask and continually swished it back and forth to keep the lens clear. I suppose things like this are going to happen if you dive enough and perhaps I'm a better diver for the experience. Nonetheless, I wish it hadn't happened.

Half Moon Caye

After a delicious lunch we walked to the observation tower. We were greeted along the way by softball sized land hermit crabs and also an iguana. I loved walking along the forest path in my barefeet, tripping over exposed roots. But the real excitement was climbing to the top of the tower. Standing on this tower I was immersed the bird's world. Red footed booby birds were nesting not five feet away. Large black frigate birds continually flew overhead. Whenever those frigate birds puffed out their big red necks, I totally cracked up.
Walking along the beach was yet another amazing experience. Since no one is allowed to remove anything from the caye, the seashore is scattered with big shells and gorgeous corals. For a moment, I felt a twinge of loneliness. There are few perfect places in the world. Half Moon Caye is one of them and I wished I had someone to share it with. Too soon, the signal was given for everyone to return to the boat for our last dive of the day.

Eagle Ray Wall into Aquarium 1 hour 3 minutes, 59 feet

Gray Bermuda Chumps and Yellow tail Snappers. Sure I had seen them before. But never, never like this. The moment I sank onto the reef, a Yellow Tail swam up to me. She wasn't curious. She wasn't scared. She was hungry. I didn't have any food, but someone else did. Before I knew it hundreds, thousands of Chumps and Snappers surrounded me. I could see nothing but Chumps and Snappers. I couldn't see the blue water, the reef, the other divers. I could only see gray and yellow bodies zooming around in a frenzied feast. Most of the dive I swam in the middle of this school of fish. They didn't mind I was there. We just swam along, everyone as happy as a mosquito on a tourist.
When the food ran out, the Chumps and Snappers scattered across the water and once again I could see the reef. Queen angels, spotted drums and parrotfish swam about. Philipe, the DM, was very excited as he pointed to a patch of sand. Hummm. Why was he so excited about some sand? I stared and stared. Everyone else had already come, taken pictures and gone. Still I stared. All of a sudden, I saw a long, skinny lizardfish hanging out on the sand! Wow, how did Philipe find that thing?
Then Philipe made the signal I had been hoping and waiting for: hammerhead shark! But look as I might, I never saw any hammerhead shark. What a bummer.

Rainbow out my window

When we returned to the boat, Alex handed out Snicker candy bars. I don't think I had ever tasted anything so scrumptious.
Then the boat started bouncing up and down in the waves. I don't think I stop smiling when the boat crashes up and down like that. It's so much fun!
I stared out the window at the blue ocean waves, when what should appear, but a rainbow. Every time the boat crashed down, sending mist into the air, the evening sun made another rainbow. I was transfixed by the waves, the rainbow, the boat's constant motion. Slowly, something changed. For once, I was a part of nature's harmony. It was like I understood something, which I have for so long struggled to know. But words simply cannot describe the moment.
We approached San Pedro just in time to witness the big orange sun drop behind long whips of clouds and then disappear over the horizon.

That evening I had dinner with a couple that I had met on the boat. Holiday House was having their weekly Wednesday night BBQ on the beach. Excellent food. We ended up at Fido's, of course. But I was distracted and soon left to wonder down the beach. I ended up laying on the pier in front of Ruby's staring at the shinning, sparking stars. There was not a cloud in the sky and the brilliant light of the stars pounded through my body.
My mind kept returning to that rainbow, that feeling. Never before had I experienced such a powerful spiritual sensation. It truly bothered me that I could not explain what it was. That I could not attach words to it. It was so intangible, that I was afraid to the depths of my soul that I might forget it.
Posted By: Mexicana Re: Rainbow Out My Window (Day Six) - 12/08/02 10:17 PM
Ms. Coconuts,
Once again your description is amazing!! Was your trip all solo or just the Blue Hole?? Did you take any pictures?? That would be the icing on the cake!!

Thanks again!
Mexicana wink
Posted By: Ms. Coconuts Re: Rainbow Out My Window (Day Six) - 12/08/02 10:19 PM
Perhaps some of you more experienced divers can offer some advise on this mask fogging episode. Why did this happen? Is there something else i should have done? This is my second mask and I just can't seem to find one i like. A friend said it fogged up because it was too loose. Does this happen? I did have it loose besause otherwise it made a big mark on my forehead that hurt. Any comments are appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Posted By: Ms. Coconuts Re: Rainbow Out My Window (Day Six) - 12/08/02 10:27 PM
Hi Mexicana! Yeah, the entire trip was a solo one. I like traveling by myself because i meet such interesting people from all over. I have traveled also to Cozumel alone and i must tell you i felt a lot safer in San Pedro.

I got some good shots of my trip. No people shots only pics of the town and animals. Got a great one of my stingray boyfriend. However, i don't have any way to get them on my computer. frown
Posted By: Mexicana Re: Rainbow Out My Window (Day Six) - 12/08/02 10:35 PM
Ms. Coconuts, You are a girl after my own heart!! I have made some solo trips and found them very gratifying..so hearing your experience to AC was good since I have been thinking of going alone next time. As for the mask fog problem, the one product I found to help is a little dish soap...just rub on the mask lens prior to your dive only rinse lightly. but I would like to hear what others try??
Mexicana wink
Posted By: seashell Re: Rainbow Out My Window (Day Six) - 12/08/02 10:54 PM
Awesome report Ms. C. I'm right there with you. I particularly enjoyed your description of the Hole. That was very similar to my first experience. It's kind of spiritual for me even now and each time I descend into it, I see more than the time before.

Considering the wave conditions that you described that day, I'd say you were quite lucky to be on the big boat. I've been out on Amigo's smaller boat before they got the cruiser and the cruiser is a significantly more pleasant trip.

As for your mask fogging up, I use spit, my own spit. You have to really goop it on there and smear it all about and then a seawater rinse. It coats the lense so that it doesn't fog. There are special products that you can buy that some people swear by, however, I don't care for them. Others use a drop or two of baby shampoo, it doesn't sting the eyes while other soaps will.

Even after all this time, I occasionally don't do it well enough and get a foggy mask. I handle it the same way you did. C'est la vie.

When you described how you felt on Halfmoon Caye, that also called to me. I have always been alone when I go on that daytrip. Even when I've had people take the walk with me, it is a distinctly solitary experience, watching the rays and the little box fish in the shallows weaving in and out of the turtle grass. Next time you go, turn right when you leave the bird sanctuary trail and that path takes you over to the wilder side of the island. Now that's "alone"!!

Actually, I've almost felt like you've been describing my first couple of trips to Ambergris. I used to go and sit out or lay on the end of a dock every night before I went to bed too. Aside from the blanket of stars, one night I thought I saw a UFO. wink
Posted By: mossback Re: Rainbow Out My Window (Day Six) - 12/08/02 10:54 PM
So, you wanted to go in a SMALLER boat? Hmmm...
Posted By: skullyboy Re: Rainbow Out My Window (Day Six) - 12/08/02 11:27 PM
Ohh Ms. Coconuts... I think all of us are right there with you on your trip reports. As for the mask fog I usually do as seashell a little spit and just learn to deal with it. Waiting patiently for your next chapter
Posted By: Ms. Coconuts Re: Rainbow Out My Window (Day Six) - 12/08/02 11:32 PM
Seashell,

So it's important that its a SEAWATER rinse after you spit in your mask? That would explain why it fogged only during this trip because i just rinsed in the big bucket where everyone's masks were stored. Every other time i used seawater.

Mexicana- where have you solo traveled? I'm always looking for new places to go!
Posted By: jkdiver Re: Rainbow Out My Window (Day Six) - 12/09/02 03:29 AM
Ms. C. I also travel solo and Fiji was AMAZING. I was just a comfortable there as I was on AC.
Posted By: seashell Re: Rainbow Out My Window (Day Six) - 12/09/02 07:04 AM
Sorry Ms. C, I'm not sure that it's important that it's a seawater rinse. However, I will say this about that. Do you really want to be soaking your mask in a tub of water that everyone has rinsed their spit into? wink
Posted By: Mexicana Re: Rainbow Out My Window (Day Six) - 12/09/02 07:57 AM
Hola Ms. Coconuts,

Looks like you got lots of advice...I forgot about the baby shampoo. I took a hike into the jungle of Belize with two dobermans, that was pretty exciting. I am not even sure exactly where it was because the dogs belonged to some friends and they left them with me for a week while they made a trip to the states. I got a snake bite but luckily had very tight thick jeans and the penetration was minimal... I still had trouble getting back and the pants almost didn't come off due to swelling. The fang marks were very tiny but my leg was so swollen I couldn't wear anything but shorts for a few days. I have made other trips local to my home 500-1000 miles just trekking around in the wilderness takiing pictures and birdwatching. Northern California and areas of Washington state and Oregon some garnet digs in Idaho and a few white water raft trips with a guide. I am not sure that I can encourage you to take any of my trips, if you are only into Tropical locations. Belize and Mexico have been among my favorite warmer areas, but I really love the Northwest including BC Canada. I have driven both coast hwys from top to bottom in Mexico with a few companions Lots of diversity! Thats about it! If my $$ were unlimited I think I would like to see Australia and Africa.
Where else to you like to go???

I love hearing of travel experiences! Belize remains among my favorite all time places to visit!
Mexicana wink
Posted By: rickcheri Re: Rainbow Out My Window (Day Six) - 12/09/02 08:08 AM
You go girls!!!!!!
Rick:, Keep it coming!!!!

:p wink eek eek laugh laugh cool
Posted By: Ms. Coconuts Re: Rainbow Out My Window (Day Six) - 12/09/02 08:45 PM
jk- I'm excited that you mentioned Fiji as a place you felt safe in because i'm considering going there this summer!

Seashell- you have a good point. I think next time I'll just bring a bottle of water to rinse my mask.

Mexicana- Wow, sounds like you've had many great adventures. Although the snake bite sounds scary. I've never been to the Northwest, but the pictures are always very pretty. Yep, i'm a warm weather girl. It's rainy and high 40s here and that's too darn cold for me. That said, if i had unlimited $$ I'd like to scuba dive near Antarctica. Yeah, I know, I don't make any sense at all. Africa would also be an amazing place to go. Now that I think about it, if i had unlimited funds, I'd be a vagrant and just wonder around the world....
Posted By: jkdiver Re: Rainbow Out My Window (Day Six) - 12/09/02 10:17 PM
Ms. C.

You will LOVE it!! We are about the same age and I love going on adventures alone. You have to meet people that way. I always meet the nicest people and have a great time.

The people in Fiji are just as nice at the people of Belize. Always smiling. Diving is also GREAT, with all o fthe soft coral colors you will love it!

JoAnn
Posted By: seashell Re: Rainbow Out My Window (Day Six) - 12/10/02 12:26 AM
No offence intended, but I don't know how old Ms. C is and can't find this info in the messages. However, if Ms C has revealed this info previously and is willing to reveal it again, I'd be curious to know your approx age. Do you mind? It will just help a bit with context, not to mention my natural curiousity. (grin)
Posted By: jkdiver Re: Rainbow Out My Window (Day Six) - 12/10/02 01:20 AM
OOPS, I mis-read the information page. I read # of posts as age(43)...good thing she did not have very many. I think I need to get better glasses.

I am sorry if I offended you Ms. C.

JoAnn
Posted By: Ms. Coconuts Re: Rainbow Out My Window (Day Six) - 12/10/02 06:07 AM
While talking with people in San Pedro, there were three popular questions. One, are you traveling alone? Two, Do you smoke? Three, and i love the way central america asks this question, how many years do you have?

I have 31 years. But i didn't include this info in the reports just to make you wonder. No, no, no. I just didn't want to alienate anyone. I've always gotten alone with people of all ages. One of my best friends is 57 and I also have many great friens who have just turned six. But since you asked. wink
Posted By: seashell Re: Rainbow Out My Window (Day Six) - 12/10/02 08:07 AM
LOL!! Yes, I know just what you mean. I'm always being asked how old I am.

I've been fudging my age (more than) a bit the past two years and if they look at me a bit funny, I just wink and say "when I'm in Belize". hee hee hee
Posted By: Miss Anthropy Re: Rainbow Out My Window (Day Six) - 12/10/02 07:24 PM
When I'm in Belize, i figure my years to be about 20 U.S., here in the states i'm a whopping 40 BZE. Ahhhh, San Pedro, Belize... wink
Posted By: seashell Re: Rainbow Out My Window (Day Six) - 12/10/02 07:43 PM
Miss Anthropy gets it.
Posted By: CAPTAIN bigzeke Re: Rainbow Out My Window (Day Six) - 12/11/02 04:57 PM
*
Posted By: GAY AND DAVID Re: Rainbow Out My Window (Day Six) - 12/13/02 03:56 PM
i have 31 years as well, , , , the trouble is that i have a few more added to it. :rolleyes:
gay
Posted By: Ms. Coconuts Re: Rainbow Out My Window (Day Six) - 12/13/02 07:29 PM
No trouble Gay, just more wisdom, more experience, more STORIES...
Posted By: GAY AND DAVID Re: Rainbow Out My Window (Day Six) - 12/13/02 07:35 PM
and more thighs mad
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