ABOUT THE TOWNS
BELIZE CITY
Belize City is a major seaport on the Caribbean, the former capital and the largest town in Belize. It is home to about 45,000 inhabitants, roughly one-third of the country's total population. With an ethnic mix of Maya, African, European and Asian, its people provide a truly unique cultural blend
A visitor's first view of Belize is usually from the plane as it descends into Belize City. The countryside is spectacular in that it seems devoid of human habitation. The country, often with areas of marshland, is flat and grassy with intermittent, low-lying vegetation. As the plane arrives at the small airport, recently renamed honoring a well known political hero, one may notice the extensive military installations both of the British and of the Belizean Defense Force. Work is in progress on a new and extended airport facility adjacent to the present one.
After clearing customs, visitors are taken to Belize City along the last few miles of the Northern Highway, which follows the course of the Belize River to its delta. The river is closely lined with swamps of black mangrove, which are protected by law and provide stability for the banks as well as habitat for many species of animals and birds. It will be noticed that there are some interesting and attractive houses along the road, many having extensive clearings and canals giving access to the sea.
As one nears the city the houses become smaller and closer together. Many are constructed on rather precarious looking stilts as protection from the flooding of the river (Belize City stands only eighteen inches above sea level) and from water borne in by storms. The last few miles of the river are named Haulover Creek, probably from the times when cattle were "hauled over" (by a rope tied around their horns) to be sold at market. A ferry was used for many years until the first bridge was built in 1935. The present swing bridge is opened each morning at around 5:30 and then again in the evening, depending upon need. It takes many strong men and often a few tourists (though this is not really allowed) to turn the mechanism with iron bars. This soon creates a passage for the fishing boats and pitpans coming down river to the sea or traveling upriver to trade.
Near the swing bridge which connects the two halves of the city is the market where, twice each day, fishing boats unload their catch. From red snapper to seahorses, from conch to lobster, the benevolence of the sea is apparent here.
Also at the market one may choose from fruits and vegetables, both familiar and exotic, which are piled on counters, barrows and on the sidewalk. Often Garifuna ladies will be selling stacks of triangular cassava bread and little cans of cassava starch, a valued commodity where mass produced laundry products are beyond the means of many Belizeans. There are modern stores nearby. One, Brodies, was established a century ago, but the best buys and the most popular places to,shop are to be found in the markets.
Many of the buildings downtown have a tumbled-down and haphazard appearance. This is due in part to hurricanes which sometimes devastate the city. They occur usually in the fall but have been experienced as early as June. It is estimated that major hurricanes have hit this area of coastline some twenty-one times since 1787 when record keeping began. The most spectacular destruction was from Hurricane Hattie in 1961. Her 160-mph winds and the resulting 14-foot tidal wave wiped out 70% of the city. Some buildings were just partially damaged and the expensive repair work was not possible.
There are now some good hotels and restaurants available in Belize City, many along the waterfront. Tourism, particularly ecotourism, has become a priority with the Belizean government and opportunities for tourism related industries are growing. More hotels will become available in the future and existing hotels are expanding.
There are some interesting places to visit in town, some of which tell the history of this unique little country. St. John's Cathedral, the first Anglican church in Central America, built in 1812, is located on Regent Street. It was the scene for coronations of several of the kings of the Mosquito Coast Indians. Government House, also on Regent Street, is an important and attractive historical site.
Fort George, where the hotel of the same name now stands, was located on the waterfront and was the site of the initial base camp of pirate Peter Wallace in 1603. From here he was able to successfully plunder the Spanish gold ships bound for home laden with their precious cargoes. The fort was actually an island once, but the unloaded ballast of untold numbers of British ships has filled in the narrow stream between it and the mainland. Eleven ancient canons from a foundered British ship were set here in the early 1800s and were fired regularly three time a day -- at sunrise, noon and dusk.
There are no beaches in Belize City, but to the south of town can be found the white Caribbean sands that one expects. It is possible to walk for some distance along the waterfront on a concrete road, some stretches of which are being rendered quite attractive by plantings and the building of new amenities. One area of waterfront is rather spoiled by the presence of a huge dredge pipe which, though unsightly, is helping to clear a nearby canal for boats.
By far the best attraction of Belize City is its population. These welcoming and pleasant people are always ready to share their pride in their city and country with visitors. While the Creole language they speak is often hard for strangers to understand, it is musical and pleasant to listen too and they are happy to "translate" for visitors.
There are many children in Belize City, as the birth rate is quite high. Many, it will be noticed, will be wearing one of the many neat school uniforms. Most schools are run by various religious denominations which have some autonomy over the curriculum. There is an extremely high value placed on education and school is compulsory for children from 614 years old. Many go on to secondary schools and to college, some of which are overseas enrollments. There is a National Board of Education which is working toward the standardization of curricula.
The position of Belize City in mangrove swamps, its low elevation and its vulnerability to destruction by hurricanes were responsible for the relocation of Belize's capitol city to Belmopan, some fifty miles inland to the southwest.
ORANGE WALK
Located 65 miles from Belize City, Orange Walk is best known for its sugar cane fields, sugar mill and orange groves, although in the latter part of the 1700s timber was logged, floated to Belize City and shipped to destinations worldwide. The area was settled by refugees of the Caste War of Southern Mexico in the 1800s. Today the most noticeable people you will see on the streets are the Mennonites in their simple clothes and horsedrawn buggies.
COROZAL
Founded by Mexican refugees in 1850, Corozal is now a sleepy semi-Mexican, semiCaribbean seaside town. Located 100 miles from Belize City and 12 miles from the Mexican border, it is an excellent base for visiting the Maya ruins of the area.
SAN PEDRO, AMBERGRIS CAYE
Now a bustling tourist resort and fishing community, San Pedro's history is filled with stories of pirates and whaling. Sand streets and beaches make walking a delight. Bikes and golf carts make getting around faster for those who haven't gotten into the laid back island mood. Shops and restaurants now abound and watersports such as diving, snorkeling, fishing and windsurfing are all excellent ways to pass a few days in the sun.
BELMOPAN
Located 50 miles west of Belize City, Belmopan was built to be the capital city after Hurricane Hattie destroyed much of Belize City in 1961. In the middle of the country and protected from major weather problems, this planned city has grown much more slowly than expected.
SAN IGNACIO
San Ignacio is the administrative center of the Capo District, settled by Mestizo and Maya immigrants from Guatemala and Lebanese traders. It was once a terminal for chicle and the timber trade, however, agriculture is now the major economic base. Located 75 miles west of Belize City, it is only 8 miles from the border with Guatemala.
PUNTA GORDA
Approximately 200 miles by road from Belize City, Punta Gorda is the last real town in southern Belize. Once a Caribe settlement, it now also hosts Creoles, Kekchi and Mopan Maya, East Indians, Lebanese and Chinese. Fishing, rice, beans, mango, banana and shrimp farming are the basis of the "P. G." economy.
DANGRIGA
Once known as Stann Creek, Dangriga, now the second largest town in Belize, is one of the main areas of Garifuna settlements. These Black Caribs fled to Belize from Honduras after a failed rebellion. The anniversary of their arrival is celebrated on November 19th (Garifuna clan) each year. Dangriga's first settlers were Puritans from the island of New
Providence, who arrived in the 1800s. . Citrus crops such as Valencia oranges and grapefruit are the backbone of Dangriga's economy.
PLACENCIA TOWN
Located at the southernmost tip of a peninsula, Placencia can be reached by flying into Big Creek and boating over to Placencia. However, there is a driveable road. Mostly a fishing village, the main activities center around the Coop, which provides the ice to preserve the catch. Placencia has some of the most beautiful beaches in Belize with several small hotels.
TIKAL, GUATEMALA
Actually, there is no town of Tikal. There are only the ruins, a few hotels and the museum, but we feel some mention of the accommodations here need to be made. We usually use the Tikal Inn, a rustic hotel with inside rooms, a few outside thatch-roofed cottages and a main dining hall The inn provides private facilities with limited electricity and no hot water (pipe warmed only), however, the warm weather precludes its necessity. The bathroom cleanliness has much improved, but the plumbing often leaks. There have been no problems with clean linen, however, mosquito netting is available here and if it is not already above the bed, ASK FOR IT. The food has improved considerably. Be careful of the water. Because it is in short supply, drinking water must be brought in from Flores and sometimes it is questionable. Please know that this is the best accommodation in Tikal. The decision was made to stay here rather than an hour away in Flores because the travel time would cut into the prime early morning and late afternoon natural history and photographic opportunities. We think you will find the minor inconveniences of the hotel outweighed by the magnificent Ruins and wildlife of Tikal National Park.
CHAN CHICH (Little Bird)
In northwestern Belize, deep in some of the most inaccessible terrain in the country, an area of about 250,000 acres has been set aside for a unique center of research. It is
dedicated to the study of agriculture, forestry, wildlife habitats and the archaeology of the Maya.
Central to this vast region is a wonderful lodge, built to accommodate the visitors who come to the facility both to study and to just enjoy the ambiance of its jungle surroundings. This lodge was established in 1988 by Barry Bowen, a native born Belizean who overcame incredible obstacles to even access the site. It took an intrepid group of workers to clear the site and build the facilities out of purely native materials.
The lodge is actually built within the confines of an extensive Maya site dating from 250800 A.D. It nestles within the lower plaza while the upper plaza and temple mounds with their canopy of verdant jungle form a backdrop. The entrance temples and the large main temple have been looted by way of vertical slit trenches, but burial chambers with wellpreserved friezes around the low ceiling remain.
The modern buildings have been erected without intrusion into the rubble-covered plaza. They are charming in appearance with roofs of dense thatch overhanging cool verandas. Inside, the pleasant airy rooms are equipped with comfortable queen-sized beds, ceiling fans and modern bathrooms. A central building is a meeting place for guests and contains a well-stocked bar, dining room and offices. The good food, friendly service and hospitality to be found here are a perfect adjunct to the tranquility and splendor of the natural surroundings.
The area around the lodge is traced with well-maintained trails which can be enjoyed on foot and on horseback. It is possible to catch a glimpse of such elusive jungle inhabitants as Tapir, Ocelot, Margay, Howler Monkey, Agouti, Coatimundi, Brocket Deer and Peccary. Even the rare nocturnal Jaguar makes its presence known by its tracks in the soft earth of the trails. The rich profusion of animal and plant species is evident here as well as around the nearby Laguna Verde, a beautiful lake where swimming and canoeing are popular activities.
As scientific work is so often in progress by biologists, botanists, archaeologists, etc., these people are often available during the evening hours to discuss their work with interested visitors.
The lodge is about 130 miles from Belize City, about 3-1/2 hours by road. Most visitors come in by plane, which takes 30 minutes from the city. This mode of travel makes it possible to appreciate the vast stretches of pristine forest which covers almost 70% of inland Belize. Its diversity is obvious, especially when one considers that there are 4,000 recorded plant species in the country, of which 700 are trees.