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Joined: May 2006
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I built over time and my house is only around 1000sq ft.Lumber has not gone up much for me because I started with only Mahogany for BZ$2.50 a foot, then moved to Sapodilla when it costs about the same
I specialize in construction methods that save costs. The high school is about 3200 sq ft concrete construction with two bathrooms but no kitchen. It was built by me last year for $130K. The hardwood lumber for it cost $2 a ft at the site.

Joined: Aug 2009
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I had no idea how popular this topic would be when I posted my original question!!

I can say that in my research... have also found that concrete is the way to go if you want insurance.....being from South Texas Coast...Not having insurance never crossed my mind...

Need to figure out how to PM...but Dane..I've decided to pay cash and build over time in stages.....how much would it cost for me to have just the concrete piers done for a $1200 s.f. concrete box ...basically?

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I don't like concrete buildings to live and work in.Have you thought of concrete frame with wood for the parts that touch you?The schools pilings cost about US$800 each to cast and drive in to acceptance depth,which at our site was 15-19 ft. They were 10in plastic pipes with three bars 3/4 inside filled with concrete and cured. It seems to us on CC that they charge a lot more on AC for the same things, even when the cost to the builder is the same as here.
We used a 10 ft spacing but homes here use 14 ft will no obvious ill effects up until now.
All other choices besides driven pilings are as they say
"Number Two"

Last edited by Dane; 04/09/10 07:52 AM.
Joined: Oct 2001
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TerriJ -- suggest that you first get a check of your land by a soils engineer. Then discuss what kind of house you want to build and after that find out what kind of foundation that house needs in that particular location.
After that you can work with your architect to select and design a home that fits your budget as well as your needs for safety and comfort.

AC specific info - you will need a building permit (for anything including pilings), and building permits are good for a year at at time. Suggest that you check out the costs involved in the renewal process, and consider the implications of changes in building codes over time. Might want to wait to start until you can construct foundation and a basic shell at one time. Along with the issues of permits, you will find that start and stop construction usually costs you in ways you don't anticipate.

Joined: Oct 2006
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Diane is right about a soils engineer and architect. On Caye Caulker because it is a village the building permit and the activity of building is different than on SP. SP is a town and they have extensive building permits and required sets of architectural building plans. These were not required on CC when I started building and my guess that is the same for Dane as well. The are several drawbacks regarding building over time, the biggest is that any rebar left exposed will begin to detriorate from rust. Just putting in the foundation you will need to expose a couple of feet of rebar so that the columns can be tied to them. This is the same in the States, Europe and Africa. I have worked in all three places as an architect and an a residential contractor in the States. Its not so easy to just go to a place and start building your dream house. Many people in SP and CC have started building projects without having a good set of engineered drawings and architectural drawings. Best to start with these then proceed to finding a good contractor. Many contractors will build for you in the manner you want, e.i. over time and in stages. But then you should stick with the same contractor because once you switch the new contractor will most likely find many faults with the previous work and will refuse to take liability. Good luck with your house.

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Also, not sure anyone will give a construction loan or a mortgage for houses being built in Belize. I know that I had to pay cash for everything and my credit score is very high.

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Not true for all.

Joined: Oct 2006
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Not sure what isn't true for all. Could you clarify so I don't give bad advise in the future.

Joined: May 2006
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One trick I like is to use concrete with less cement and wood job scraps to form and cast a cap over rebars left exposed. When the work proceeds it takes only about fifteen minutes to chip away the soft concrete and expose a good surface to cast the actual building.

Joined: Apr 2000
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Or treat with Ospho and then slather with grease and slide PVC pipe over to protect

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