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September 6th 1999 - Having volunteered to monitor the turtle nests at the Bacalar Chico Marine Reserve, we left San Pedro by boat with no great confidence that we would actually see any hatchlings, being that this is a very rare scene to actually witness. Having joined Isaias Majil and Jason Edwards, who work tirelessly for the Marine Reserve, we dropped off our overnight gear at the Research Station near Rocky Point and headed off toward Robles Point for the long, beach walk to check all the remaining nests. Upon reaching the first nest, that had already hatched, we assisted in digging out and counting the old eggs to record the number of hatchlings and the number of spoilt eggs. Spoilt eggs, being those that have been ruined by crabs and the like, and those that for one reason or another failed to hatch.
We then made our way to the second nest
and began to very carefully dig. After a couple of minutes and to great
excitement, Isaias revealed a tiny little head of a turtle that had just
broken out of its shell. Quickly, we covered the nest and knew that we
would indeed witness this rare sight at dusk. We then checked a few more
old nests before we made our way back to the live nest, being that we
were determined not to miss it. We settled down and waited for this
incredible event.
Three hours later, dusk had been and gone and we were
still sitting there, being attacked by everything that flies, bites and
stings, now in total darkness. The sky was littered with twinkling stars,
the backdrop full of fireflies and the sea glittered with phosphorescence
- quite beautiful.
At 7:10 p.m., we were all face down in the sand,
with bottoms in the air, watching for any movement. Suddenly, the sand
moved and one tiny turtle head appeared. This being the leader of the
pack, he stayed there for several minutes checking out his new world and
looking for any predators. The head disappeared and all was calm once
again. Isaias and Jason had warned us that this would happen and we were
content to sit and wait for the "event". Minutes later, the tiny head was
back -
With our mouths hanging open in pure, unadulterated
amazement, 82 newborn turtles scuttled up, turned toward the sea and made
a mad dash for the water, on total remote control. The sand was alive
with new life and it was all we could do not to scream with delight.
Whilst the last hatchling was struggling out of his deep sandy nest, the
first was already at the water line and his brothers and sisters now
covered the entire stretch of beach. The first wave threw them back
onto the beach, but undeterred they went directly back into the surf as
they are programmed to do.
At this point, Maarten took the first photograph (his
mouth was too wide open in stunned amazement to take one earlier) and as
the flash went off, every single hatchling stopped, turned to face him
and started off in his direction. Of course, they were trying to follow
the sound of the water and the moon, and now the Olympus camera had
become their moon. Isaias called for Maarten to move to the water line,
which he did with great speed, and the line of hatchlings duly turned and
followed him. At this point, Bron was standing by the water line, again
with mouth wide open, and as if to prove that they are unstoppable, one
hatchling reached her foot, clambered over it with ease and continued on
his journey - accompanied by her squeals of delight.
Finally, the last hatchling reached the water line and
disappeared out into the open ocean, but not before having to swim
through the heavy surf at the reef edge - a feat that even we humans find
difficult. As we write this, they are still swimming out there somewhere,
struggling to keep out of the reach of the numerous predators and natural
obstacles that would appear to us to be insurmountable.
Isaias and Jason, ever ready to answer
our endless questions, informed us that only one out of 100 of these
hatchlings would make it to maturity and become a fully grown 85 pound
Loggerhead turtle.
It is very rewarding to know that we assisted in at
least the first part of their journey, ensuring that the crabs and birds
failed to get any of them on the beach. Once into the sea, they are on
their own, but having seen their determination, stamina and
pre-programming, they have a great chance of making it.
We have traveled much of the world, and seen schooling
Hammerhead Sharks, Grey Whales giving birth, Great White Sharks attacking
bait boxes, Ospreys plucking fish from the sea and Giant Pacific Manta
Rays barrel rolling but this event tops it all. In short, the most awe
inspiring sight we have ever witnessed and we are greatly indebted to The
Bacalar Chico National Park, and their staff, for the opportunity.
Anyone wishing to witness such a sight is more than
welcome to volunteer their services to the Park. You will have to work
for it, digging out old nests, walking miles up and down the beach under
the burning sun whilst being attacked by every airborne irritant known to
man, but the chance to see the hatchlings debut into this world is worth
all this and much more.
This, and many, many other wonders, are all right here
on Ambergris Caye - an environment so rich and awesome in its diversity
and a place that we are proud and privileged to call home.
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